Odin, the Norse God,  himself must have given the planets a mighty tweak over the weekend. Not only did he manage to align a few heavenly globes, but somehow he also conjured getting half of my siblings, their partners, and even some extended family members all to Copenhagen for one long weekend only. This was no mean feat, given that this required family members flying from Sydney, London, Ireland and even my younger sis and her bloke came all the way from Berlin. Heck, even a work colleague decided he’d fly in from Seattle just to be part of the Copenhagen weekend fest. Add to the melting pot, the fact that it was Jazz Festival time in Copenhagen, and also the height of the Roskilde festival (the Danish answer to Glastonbury), then it seemed everything was happening in Denmark’s capital – for one weekend only.

Apart from a 1 day work trip to Stockholm, I hadn’t truly experienced a Scandinavian country before. However, I did know that their ancestors, the Vikings had marauded and pillaged many parts of Europe (and beyond), and this included taking Celtic folk of the ginger persuasion as slaves, and propagating the Blonde genome beyond mercy. Yes, marauding Vikings are to blame for the strawberry blonde and not the hairdressing industry, who I thought, had coined the hybrid colour in the mid-eighties, just to piss me and my teenage sensibilities off. So the fact that my family, a family that has Celtic roots (and ginger ones too), descended into the very heart of Viking country, was well noted as an historic event. We reclaimed Denmark for the Celtish folk on arriving in Blonde Central, otherwise known as Copenhagen, on Friday night ,with a mighty roar and the quaffing of a ceremonial Carlsberg pint or two in the Scottish pub, just opposite the Radhuspladsen (Town Hall square). What? A Scottish pub in Copenhagen, I hear you say? Well, actually head to the multi-coloured gables of Nyhavn and you will come across a couple of Irish pubs too. Heck, even Stroget, the main shopping strip has a pub called the Irish Rover! What the…? It seems the Celts have already conquered the Danes, well at least from the worldly recognised pub metric.

Aside from the momentous occasion of having a memorable family reunion, a few things struck me about Copenhagen and the Danish people. Bicycles! Heaps of them!

Danish Transport 

I saw more people on bicycles in Copenhagen than cars. The place is geared up for the bicycle. Cycle paths edge the streets, and if there are stairs, then a tyre track has been installed, to allow safe passage of Dane and bike. The Copenhagen economy is dependent on the bicycle. We had a tour company dude, pass by on his bike and stop to sell us a tour. All from your bike. Parents ferry their children in a cart come tricycle contraption, which apparently was invented in the suburb of Christiania. It is a remarkably clean city as a result of this. The Danes are indeed a health conscious people. Fruit stalls, fruit shoppes and yes, even fruit on bikes abound. The Danish are also remarkably efficient. Their Metro system has to be the most impressive I’ve ever ridden. It’s all automated, no drivers required – and even if they were needed, they’d be too busy riding their bikes – so the Danes are an inventive people too. In fact, Denmark, has actually been voted the happiest nation on earth. (Read about it here…) What a title! This was abundantly clear in the numerous smiles and general helpfulness we received from many locals. On one occasion, we were trying to figure out which end of our train-tickets to validate in the machine, a Dane just walked up to us, and did it for us. Unprompted, all with a smile. If this was in London, I would have been shunned as a stupid Antipodean who didn’t know which way was up or which way was down.

We walked most of Copenhagen, except for the bits where we took a canal boat, and road the Metro and the train. But, I swear we did walk most of it. On Saturday, we walked along Stroget to Hojbro Plads, and picked up a canal boat ride. I took great fascination at the magnificent statue of Bishop Absalon, who looked suspiciously like a Crusader, for a pious man. In fact, it was one of my favourite photos from the visit.

Bishop Absalon statue & St Nicolaj Kirke Spire, Copenhagen 

Just across the roundabout from the statue, canal boats set off. The ride took us around Slotsholmen, an island which plays host to the Danish houses of parliament. This followed by a trip into Copenhagen harbour, crossing over into Christianhavn, and then out to visit the Little Mermaid, and then back to our starting point. So yes, the Danish are also into boats. Not surprising given their Viking heritage. After that trip we talk a walk over to Nyhavn, a tourist strip, lined with yellow, orange and blue pastel-coloured houses, restaurants, and boats – as a canal runs right down it’s middle out to the harbour.

Nyhavn, Copenhagen 

After Nyhavn, we walked along the harbour front around to Amaliensborg palace. It was at this point, I bumped into a work colleague, who was over from Seattle, and just happened to be in Copenhagen that weekend. Who wasn’t? Amaliensborg palace is famous not just for it’s palace and magnificent fountain, but actually its residents. Prince Frederick and Princess Mary. Not just any princess. This royal lass is a Fair Dinkum Aussie. And not just any kind of Aussie. She’s a Tasmanian. Mary is now Tasmania’s favourite daughter. So I think by that standing, Australia owns half of Denmark.  Now, if Mary is of Irish convict descent, then I’m putting it out there, that the Celts are not just running the Danish pubs, but they are also running the Danish aristocracy too. Cool!

Afterwards, a quick look inside the magnificent Frederickskirken, and then on to the Royal Gardens, or the Kongens Have as is the local term. Here we rested for a good hour. It was pushing 30 degrees Celsius, so the shade was quite welcome at this point. Yup, it was warmer than London. Our day concluded with a visit to Tivoli Gardens. Not just magnificent gardens, but a fully-fledged amusement park, right in the centre of Copenhagen. Apparently, the most tourist trafficked attraction of Denmark. At this point, we were really hungry and tired, and just wanted to sit down and feast. But, adrenalin was calling, and so we took in a couple of rides before having dinner. The Demon roller coaster and the height defying Star Flyer were enough for us, before we gratefully sat down and got stuck into some dinner. That evening, we headed over the bridge to the Radisson SAS Sky-bar, which had magnificent views over Copenhagen. That extra special, given the sun-set at the unearthly hour of 10:30pm was quite spectacular, as is evident in the photo below.

Copenhagen Sunset, view from the Radisson SAS hotel

The following day, we headed out to Roskilde. Not to visit the Festival, but to go check out its Viking Ship Museum. Just a short 25 minute journey on the train from Copenhagen Central station out to Roskilde. On arrival, I was amazed at how quiet the town was. Clearly, everyone had ventured out of town to the Festival grounds. A 30 minute walk from Roskilde station to waterside and the Viking museum. It was here that I took probably my best photo for the weekend, and I have my sister Bernadette to thank for spotting the scene. A mother and toddler, clad in traditional dress, were picnicking on the shore line, with a replica Viking boat bobbing in the water behind them. An idyllic scene, one might say.   The photo speaks for itself.

Viking Traditions, Roskilde, Denmark

That afternoon we caught up with a couple of Margaret’s cousins, who were actually visiting the Roskilde Festival. More relatives to be met, but on this occasion one of them was actually Danish – or a Danish Paddy at least. After some catching up and an update on how excellent the Roskilde line-up was, we bade goodbye and joined the Festival masses on the train platform, before heading back into Copenhagen.

Speed check? Roskilde, Denmark

That evening we had dinner on the canal front in Nyhavn, well at least until the thunderous rain came, and saw us all inside. That followed by a rather entertaining evening, visiting the 3 Irish bars, to remind the locals that we were in town, and that it was either part ours, or almost ours. We met a nice couple from Norway, in one of the bars, who seemed quite amused by our penchant for singing, dancing, and merriment. Our merriment, had nothing to do with the beer we were drinking, we were just happy to be there – and remember Denmark is the happiest country in the world. Leover, the boy-friend of my sister, struck up a conversation about Svalbard, a Norwegian island in the Arctic circle, where they were considering visiting. For those who have read, Philip Pullman’s Dark Materials trilogy, you can be forgiven thinking that Svalbard was a mythical place. But it actually exists, and plays host to polar bears and walruses. To Leover’s excitement, this stocky Norwegian chap painted Svalbard as a lone outpost of marauding ice-bears and wayward communists. Apparently, you must hire a rifle at the airport in Svalbard, to either defend yourself from polar-bears and/or raiding errant communists, or just to go shooting them willy-nilly. What airport in the world has gun-hire, we thought? Our Norwegian friend informed that 50 points would be awarded for the shooting of an ice-bear and 100 points would be awarded for that of a communist. Given the Cold War turn in conversation, and that it was inappropriate to be shooting an endangered species, Leover, politely informed that he had not quite drunk enough, to engage in that conversation any further. However, the prospect of hiring a gun at an airport, and going hunting certainly struck a chord with Leover. Well, it was either that, or the fact that Blue-Suede Shoes came on, courtesy of  the one man-band playing in the corner. I have never seen Leover contort in such a melee of rhythmic limb chucking, well at least, since the last time I saw him. Yes, quite an entertaining evening was had, and we made it back to our accommodation in the wee hours.

The following day was our last. But we still had a couple of things to see on our list. First up was Christiania, a self declared hippy state in the midst of urban Copenhagen. For those Aussie folk, it’s a bit like Nimbin. These hippies have set up their own society and own form of governance. It’s interesting enough to visit, although ramshackle dwellings isn’t the most exciting thing in the world. The most notable point, is running the gauntlet of Pusher Street. I kid you not. They have a street called Pusher Street, cause that’s where all the drug dudes cut their deals. We were asked if we were interested in Hash a couple of times. This confirms my theory. Where there are hippies, there will be drugs. They are very hard-core about photography in this little stretch. No cameras are allowed at all, and the pit-bull terriers that loll about here and there, suggest that this might be enforced if necessary. I did manage to take an interesting photo in this place though – outside the forbidden zone. Check out this Danish hound below. It had boot like feet. As I was photographing, I had to duck for cover, as it stopped to do it’s business and then began thrashing it’s hind legs, stomping those lion like paws, firing rancid debris everywhere. It was a rather strange looking scene. Not sure what breed of dog it is. Anyone?

The Hound of Christiania, Copenhagen 

Afterwards we took the Metro from Christianhavn to Norreport, and then the train out to Osteport. Osteport, is the nearest train station to the far end of the harbour where the Little Mermaid resides. We had seen the wee-siren on the boat tour on Saturday, but wanted to take a closer look. What was perhaps most surprising about this little visit, was that the Little Mermaid has been usurped by a newer, more voluptuous model just around the corner. There is also quite an impressive statue of a polar bear. Sorry, an ice bear. I had to control Leover once more on seeing this, more so than when he glanced askance at the Big Mermaid. The Little Mermaid, although under-whelming is still worth a look. It is one of Copenhagen’s hallmarks. It is quite remarkable that such a little statue has received such attention, especially given the sea-gulls also give her their best attention, and she looks a little worse for wear. I took a couple of photos of her, and then turned round to see a throng of Japanese tourists all firing away in my direction. This Mermaid knows all about the Paparazzi!

The Little Mermaid, Copenhagen 

So that concluded our sight-seeing. It was back to my brother’s hotel for a final drink and natter before reluctantly saying our good-byes. I have to say I really liked Copenhagen and the Danish way of life. The Danes are indeed a friendly and relaxed bunch of people. This was further evident, later, at the airport, when after it was announced that our flight would be delayed by 3 hours, due to bad weather in London, the pilot of the plane, came up to the gate and began chatting with passengers about the reasons for it. I’ve never seen this anywhere. Normally, the pilots, make a beeline through security and that’s the last you see of them. So, I have had a small taste of Scandinavia now, and so looking forward to my weeks visit to Norway at the end of August. The question is, will I make it to Svalbard? Well, there is a small possibility my sister Bernadette and Leover may make it. When I left them at the hotel yesterday, they had sent an email to the Svalbard official web-site, asking if they could bid Odin to get them there as cheaply as possible, and he finished the email, enquiring whether it was indeed a requirement that a rifle must be hired at the airport?

As always, more photos can be found in the albums: Denmark: Copenhagen Sights, and Denmark: Copenhagen Reunion